In a used bookstore last Saturday, I was browsing the cookbook section when I found a like-new copy of a Marcella Hazan cookbook I didn’t yet have in my collection, Marcella Says… Flipping through it, I was delighted to find not only new recipes, but stories from her experiences in the kitchen, teaching cooking classes, working with her husband, and more. Photographs of Marcella cooking, shopping at markets, and simply going about her life are scattered throughout the book. While I was excited to add several new recipes to my list, I enjoyed the glimpse into her life and experiences most of all.

Marcella was a teacher through and through. You can see that in her recipes, with very specific instructions about preparation, ingredients, and cooking techniques. In this book, you get even more insight into the reasoning behind her methods, along with the culinary traditions and history that shaped many of the recipes.

With fresh eggplant on hand from a recent farmers market trip, this pasta sauce was an easy choice for my first recipe from the book. I especially liked how substantial the eggplant made this sauce, while the mozzarella melted into the tomatoes as it cooked. My family enjoyed it so much, especially as leftovers when the flavors had deepened overnight, that I made it again the following week.

About this Recipe

Marcella describes eggplant marinara as a longtime classic of Neapolitan cooking, the food traditions of Naples and the surrounding Campania region. Her version takes a slightly different approach, skipping the usual step of salting and draining the eggplant, adding chili pepper for a little heat, and using Pecorino Romano in place of Parmesan.

I used a Dutch oven rather than a skillet for this recipe. I’ve found it works especially well for Marcella’s recipes that need both higher heat for browning and a longer, slower cooking time. It gave the eggplant plenty of room to brown before adding the tomatoes and continuing to cook the sauce over lower heat.

Fresh mozzarella is added toward the end of cooking, just before the pasta is tossed with the sauce. Instead of Parmesan, the finished pasta gets Pecorino Romano and torn fresh basil. The sauce is chunky and substantial, with tender eggplant, melted mozzarella, tomato, and a little heat from the chili pepper.

Ingredient Notes

1. Fresh mozzarella

I used fresh buffalo mozzarella, which has a soft texture and rich, milky flavor. Fresh cow’s-milk mozzarella also works well. I prefer fresh mozzarella here rather than pre-shredded cheese, which contains anti-caking ingredients and has a different texture when melted.

2. Dried red chili flakes

Marcella calls for chopped fresh chili pepper, adjusting the amount to taste and to the heat of the pepper. I used dried red chili flakes instead, which are easy to adjust depending on how much heat you want in the finished sauce.

3. Pecorino Romano

This hard sheep’s-milk cheese has a salty, sharper flavor than Parmesan. Marcella specifically uses a sheep’s-milk cheese in this recipe, with Pecorino Romano as one of her suggested options. Grate it fresh just before adding it to the finished pasta.

The Recipe

Cooking Tip: Don’t Worry When the Oil Disappears

Eggplant absorbs olive oil very quickly, so the pot may look almost dry shortly after you add it. Resist the urge to immediately add more oil.

As the eggplant continues to cook and soften, it will begin to release some of the oil it absorbed and then start to brown. Stir it occasionally and give it time before deciding whether it needs more oil.

Serve With

• Crusty Italian bread or focaccia
• A simple green salad with a lemon or red wine vinaigrette